Brayer the entire piece of paper using the rainbow ink pad.
Step Two:
Crumple the piece of brayered paper into a ball.
Step Three:
Flatten out the paper and ink the creases using the direct to paper (DTP) technique.I’m using Tea Dye Distress ink.
Step Four:
Crumple the paper once again, flatten out and ink the creases with a darker ink.I’m using Ancient Page Sienna ink. Repeat steps 3 & 4 with a different ink color. I’m using the Distress Fired Brick ink.
Step Five: (Optional)
I wanted to tone the color down a little, so I used the Soft Wheat ink all over the paper.
Step Six:
Crumple the paper a final time, smooth out and ink the creases with the metallic gold pigment ink. I‘m using the Encore Ultimate Metallic Gold ink.
Step Seven:
Sprinkle on the embossing powder. Do not cover the entire paper. I used a little measuring spoon to drop the powder here and there. Tap off the excess and return to the jar. Heat the powder until melted and until any non coated areas are dry.
Step Eight:
Enjoy your finished background! Here’s a card example using a piece of this finished background. I used it for a backing layer for some color behind the leaves on the marigold panel.
I frequently make faux brads for my cards. Apart from liking the way they look, I find they go through the mail easier, don’t add a lot of weight and I don’t have the prongs to worry about. I hate it when they stick out or won’t allow the layers to lay flat. They can also be made to match by using the same card stock or designers paper used for the project. Usually I stick to 1/4″ but really, the size is only dependent upon the size of hole or circle punch you use.
In my quest to find an easy, consistent way to achieve the distinct rounded shape of a brad, I came up with a little brad jig. I’ve tried a lot of different objects, but this seems to work the best. I made this new one for the tutorial as my old one was made from a cereal box and had a lot of colors and words on it. After I finished this, I went back and added some other sizes using my Japanese screw punch.
Before I show you how to make the faux brad, I need to show you how to make the Faux Brad Jig. It’s made from a piece of card board from a box. This is how it looks. (Click on any picture to enlarge)
Faux Brad Jig
Step 1
Step 1: Cut a piece of card board and score where directed. I made my piece a little wider than I need for this, but I added more sizes next to it.
Step 2
Step 2: Use the punch to create a 1/4″ hole halfway between bottom edge and first fold, as indicated.
Steps 3 & 4
Steps 3 & 4: Fold the punched layer over the next layer. Line up your punch over the punched hole so that you punch through the next layer in the same spot. (Turn your punch over to see the hole.) Repeat this step on the 3rd layer. Leave the 4th layer unpunched. Your Faux Brad Jig should look like the first picture. If you made your jig this size, you will have room to add more sizes, if you wish.
Supplies for Faux Brads
To make the Faux Brads, you’ll need your Faux Brad Jig, 1/4″ hole punch, card stock, scrap card board, glue, stylus (I use the two shown: the blue one is by Fiskars and the large rolling ball silver one says Chatterbox on the side. I put some of those squishy grips for pencils on them to make them a little more comfortable to handle.)
Rounding the punched circle
First, punch a circle out of card stock. Fold up your jig completely and place the circle inside the hole. I use the largest round end of the silver rolling ball stylus to push the circle into the three layer deep hole. This will slightly round the edges of the circle.
Further rounding of Faux Brad
You can see in the left photo, the Faux Brad is starting to take shape. Here, I switch to the smaller stylus, but I only use the largest end. I rotate the stylus inside the Faux Brad, concentrating on pushing the edges against the sides for maximum rounding.
Faux Brad with card board insert
Make another brad shape out of a scrap of card board. You can use the same hole punch, but I usually use a size smaller to make sure it fits snugly inside the Faux Brad. You will need to round the card board circle before using a small amount of glue to attach it inside your Faux Brad.
Finishing Touch
As a finishing touch, I place a piece of wax paper on the last (unpunched) fold of my Jig, place the Faux Brad back into the Jig and use the smaller stylus to ensure that the brad and the card board are firmly glued together. The wax paper keeps any excess glue from sticking to my Jig and it also adds a nice little shine to the brad by “waxing” it.
Comparison
I hope you’ve enjoyed my Faux Brad Tutorial and I hope you’ll give it a try.
Thanks so much for stopping by! Your comments are always read and much appreciated!
To see examples of cards using these Faux Brads, click HERE. A list will come up and you can click on any to see the card.
This tutorial came about after an ongoing discussion with Roxieat SCS about our methods of doing the Out of the Box Nestie Technique. We each were using this technique, we just went about it differently. (6/23/10 Edited to add: Roxie now has a blog and here is her version of this technique.) I promised I would take some pictures to show my method.
(Click on any image to enlarge.)
Step 1
For Step 1, I stamped my image(s) and selected the Nestie shapes I might want to use. I selected the sizes of the circle and rectangle that were slightly smaller than my image in order to get the Out of the Box look I want. Usually, I just cut this frame out of white copy paper, but I’m using a light blue in order to be more visible here. The only reason I use a cut template and not the actual die is because of the 1/8″ difference in size. The inside of the die will be 1/8″ further into your image than the template. Most of the time this won’t matter, but on some of the more intricate ones I’ve done, it did make a difference.
Step 2
Penciled Frame
For Step 2, place the frame around the image and lightly trace the frame with a pencil.
Step 3
In Step 3, I use a craft knife to cut the areas which will be Out of the Box. In order to insert the Nestie die under this area, I have to start the cut inside the circle. I cut very close to the image outline and continue around the image to other side.
Top Cut
The Out of the Box area is cut. Note that the very top is just a rough cut for now. I don’t want it to be too unstable when I insert the Nestie die. I will go back and finish trimming this area with detail scissors after I’ve cut and embossed the Nestie circle.
Step 4
In Step 4, I insert the die under the Out of the Box area I’ve cut out. With the die under this area, it will not be cut or embossed. Test fit your die before cutting to make sure you have cut your image deep enough to allow the die to be inserted on your pencil lines.
After cutting & embossing
Now I will remove the die and finishing trimming the top area.
After top is trimmed
My Out of the Box is ready for coloring. It doesn’t really matter if you color your image before or after. I have done it both ways. With this method, it has worked the first time for me and I haven’t had to do it over. If my Out of the Box area has a lot of cutting inside the shape, I will usually add a little scotch tape to the back after it’s cut and embossed. This just stabilizes the area and really makes the cut disappear.
Detail scissors
I’m including this picture to show you my detail scissors. Quite a few people have commented on my detail cutting so I wanted to include this. The little orange pair of scissors have small, curved blades. You can see they are only about 4″ in length but the small curved tips make cutting a breeze. I’ve done a lot of decoupage and these scissors are invaluable. Fiskars made these, but cuticle scissors work, too. Another trick is to remember to turn the paper, not the scissors, when you are cutting.
All done! This was colored with Prismacolor Pencils and OMS (odorless mineral spirits, aka Gamsol).
Thanks for looking and I hope you try this fun technique. Here’s the finished card I made with this fun image.
